In Search for the Grey Ghost

Location: Mangyu, Ladakh

Who: Varun Narain Mathur (Head of the Jungle, JungleSutra)

When: January 2024

India is truly a land of diversity, renowned for its cultural richness, forts, palaces, temples, vibrant markets, and festivals, as well as being the habitat of tigers. However, the landscape remains unexplored by many, adorned with snow-covered mountains and hosting unique wildlife like the snow leopard, Ibex, Tibetan Wolf, Eurasian Lynx, and the formidable Himalayan brown bear. My recent expedition in January led me to the enchanting realm of the Upper Himalayas – Ladakh.

While most seek the cool refuge of Ladakh during the summer months, winter unveils a different allure, especially for those in pursuit of the elusive grey ghost, the snow leopard. As temperatures plummet, the wildlife descends from the lofty peaks to lower altitudes. Ladakh’s cold desert transforms from a subdued brown to a winter wonderland, where valleys are adorned with vibrant shrubs that serve as sustenance for Blue Sheep, Ladakh Uriel, Argali, Himalayan Ibex, and a variety of birds feasting on dried seeds. The predators trailing these prey include the Tibetan Wolf, Red Fox, Eurasian Lynx, and the highly sought-after Snow Leopard.

Personally, I find winters in Ladakh the optimal time to explore its breathtaking monasteries, frozen rivers, lakes, and the pristine snow-covered landscape teeming with wildlife. The reduced number of tourists during these frigid times guarantees a more exclusive experience, making the land appear untouched and pristine, awakening the explorer within.

However, one must be prepared for temperatures ranging from -6 to -25 degrees Celsius. For wildlife enthusiasts, braving the snowfall or the cold, dry mountain air becomes essential. As much of the terrain is best explored on foot, the more one can hike, the closer they get to the wildlife. Yet, the thrill of spotting the elusive “Shan” (snow leopard) or “Shanku” (wolf) and returning to the warmth of a Bukhari-heated room makes it all worthwhile.

Winter in Ladakh is also a time when villagers have less agricultural activity, offering an opportunity to explore their villages or schools. Witnessing villagers engaged in crafting handwoven shawls, gloves, scarves, and other woolen souvenirs adds a unique cultural touch. Spend some contemplative moments in a monastery, as the absence of mobile signals and internet provides a complete detox from the fast-paced world.

While the primary objective is to encounter the snow leopard in its natural habitat, the journey transforms into an ideal experience for self-reflection and relaxation. Embrace a simpler life, indulge in slow travel, and savor the moments of tranquility amidst Ladakh’s winter wonders.

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